This is fine

Post date: Oct 21, 2019 7:57:13 PM

No, really, it's totally OK when pushrods look like that.

The current build of the 403 seemed quite down on power, so I planned to do a cam swap. The 60803 is the original Voodoo I ran and quite liked. Other than the lifter and lobe failures. The "roller" is the custom grind - still a Lunati - from Remmel. Switched to the 20420711.

Looking back, the '11 is pretty mild. Should be directly comparable to the 60803, but buyer's regret tells me I should've gone up a step to the 20420712.

Well, it's just time and money.

Here's a shot of the camshafts. Left to right is 20420711, "roller", 60803.

Anyway, the time finally came to do the cam swap. Pulling everything went just fine. Got the engine on the stand and started pulling it apart. Thankfully Shaun noticed some of the pushrods didn't look, ah, quite right.

Remember these are fancy 3/8" Comp pushrods. I honed and pressed in a roll pin to act as restrictors instead of custom ordering restricted rods. Turns out cromoly doesn't like internal stresses. #1 exhaust, #2 exhaust and #4 intake were broken. These were the bottoms, so, amazingly, seems like there was no other damage. Lifters were fine. No junk anywhere. But, an engine with 3 iffy cylinders certainly won't run great.

Fine! No problem! Run to Summit to get replacement pushrods! Of course have to move up to the even more expensive Manley thick wall 5/16" rods as that's the only thing in stock that I think is strong enough. At least that gets me away from the 3/8"+Edelbrock heads + SBO interference problems.

Did I mention we were trying to R&R the engine in one day so I only pay for one day of hoist rental?

Fine, get back, start getting it back together. First rocker I adjust I realize there's lots of side to side play.

Yeah, remember how different size pushrods need different guide plates?

Luckily, I had bought a set of 5/16" guide plates last year when I first hit the 3/8" interference problem. BUT, the plates had 3/8" holes in them, while the Ebrock heads use 7/16" studs.

That's fine. Just drill the holes out!

Well, two hours and ~20 drill bits later (including two or three trashed unibits), that's finally done.

We get the engine back in the same day, but too late to return the hoist.

At least everything else went pretty well. I switched to stepped header studs in the rear two holes on each side. The middle-rear stud on each side had to be shortened so the header could get past it. The 12 point 3/8" drive nuts are super finicky, especially without a pilot point, but overall was still easier than trying to get bolts into those two locations. I really need to remember to massage the passenger header to get more space around that hole.....

Tried using the fancy Flatout copper/rubber header gaskets. Complete failure. There must be something like a 0.010" gap in the passenger side. Can only guess the headers and heads need to be surfaced the next time things come out.

Need to re-tune the carb, but can't yet due to exhaust leak, so no decision on whether or not this was a waste of time and money. Idle is certainly much smoother.

Oh, and put in YET ANOTHER POWER STEERING PUMP. Seriously, I think I'm at 10 of those things now. This one from Tuff. BUT! It's quiet.

Going to try the Flatout metal gaskets next (why use something I know works (Remflex) when I can try something new?). Hoping to slot them so they can just slide in instead of having to go over the studs. Plus the remflex are so thick that there won't be enough thread on the passenger side one. Would have to get the header in place then back out the stud or something. Probably need to come up with a way to keep header gaskets in place while moving the header around. And without smashing the gasket. Sigh.

Oh yeah, also switched to a Mega Amp 250 amp alternator. Worth it? Meh. Still sags at full load under 700 rpm.

So, the adventure continues.