Odds and Ends
Post date: Mar 11, 2014 1:54:21 AM
I'm hoping this is just the calm before the storm and things pick up from here.
Got the new tires mounted. The wheels I picked up cheap had really bad beads so I had to grind those down and paint them. The tires are trashed, so haven't messed any more with them.
The other Cutlass was ready for inspection, but I couldn't find the correct wiper refills anywhere. And that's after spending two or three hours getting the backup lights to work again!
The new brake pushrod came in and it's spot-on. I also had to turn around TWO MORE brake master cylinders because the inside bore was scratched. Finally got a good one though.
Did some cleaning and checking on the A/C ductwork and Shaun did some plastic repair on the worst stuff. Most of the hoses are OK, but the round ones completely fell apart. That's the best case - you can still buy round duct! It took two+ hours to get the defrost ducts mounted because the dash insulation covered the screw holes...... One of those things. Also tossed in the antenna lead wire and the wiper transmission. Fun fact - the retainers for the knobs on the transmission are made of copper! I cleaned them up as best I could (riveted together...) and smothered in 3-in-1. It was surprisingly tight and smooth.
The main event last weekend was wiring. I had been sketching out some of the basics that were simple - mostly lights and basic engine wiring - where I already have all the wire and diagrams. The custom stuff, and things not in the kit, are where it'll get interesting.
The hardest will be the dash, so that's where I started!
First up was the gauges. Since they have multiple gauges and idiot lights I made my own disconnects using Molex 0.063" connectors. Each pod took about an hour. The alternator light has a 3W 37 ohm resistor to excite the alternator. Should work. Actually, I may need to rethink that. I swear that was the general recommendation, but now that I'm thinking again that resistor is still likely to fry if the alternator is dead for more than a few minutes. Hm.
Each idiot light has a dual diode setup so they do the test light while cranking.
At first I thought I'd need a custom dash gauge insert to hold them based on rough measurements. I can't believe I've had the gauges over two years and just never did a test mount.
It looks like the stock dash pod was MADE for aftermarket 4 3/4" gauges.
Then we started on the actual wiring for the dash. This has roughly 2/3rds of the wires at least loomed together.
I'm sure I'll never have any problems!
Hopefully this coming weekend I can finish most of the wiring that I can and get the Cutlass inspected. Maybe even yank the motor to prep for a dyno session........ Yeah, probably not.